Methodology
Observed Wave Heights
Wave Generator
There was a wave generator (right) for which the frequency could be adjusted to create different wave lengths. Each breakwater length was tested at two different frequencies (0.537 and 0.737 Hz).
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Wave Height
Wave heights were measured by taking slow motion videos of a ruler parallel to the flow of water at each measurement point (from "Physical Model" tab). The videos were then watched back frame by frame to determine the maximum and minimum points to get the maximum wave height at each location under each condition.
Concept
The wave diffraction was studied. Wave height at different locations around the tank were measured (listed explicitly under the "Physical Model" tab) to verify the validity of the sedimentary tank in the model of breakwaters.
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Calculated Wave Heights
Calculating Wave Height and Kd Values
Equation
The equation to the right was used to determine the calculated wave heights using the incident wave height and the diffraction coefficient (determined using the table below).
Variables
The diagram to the left shows how all the variables are defined.
Calculating Kd
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The chart to the left is a portion of the entire table used to calculate Kd for the equation above.
θ is the angle that the waves are coming in at, in this case it is 90°.
β is the angle between the breakwater and the point of interest, it varies per measurement point.
r/L is a ratio of the radius over the wave length.
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All of these variables are used to determine the coefficient of diffraction (Kd).